Used Camera Buying Checklist: What to Inspect Before You Buy
A used camera can be the best value in photography or a very pretty paperweight. Here's the exact checklist to run through — shutter, lens, meter, seals — before you hand over your money.
Before buying any used camera, check five things: the shutter fires at every speed, the lens is clear of fungus and haze, the meter responds to light, the film advance is smooth, and the battery compartment is free of corrosion. Ten minutes of inspection catches the vast majority of expensive problems. Here's the full checklist, in the order we'd run it at the counter.
Who This Guide Is For
Anyone buying used gear — a vintage film SLR, a secondhand DSLR, or a mirrorless body that's a few generations old. Film shooters should read it alongside our best film cameras for beginners guide; digital buyers, alongside mirrorless vs DSLR.
The Checklist
1. Shutter — fire it at every speed
Work through the full range from slowest to fastest. Slow speeds (1s, 1/2s) should sound distinctly slower; if 1 second sounds like 1/60, the timing is off. Listen for grinding or squealing, and on film bodies, open the back and watch the shutter actually open at slow speeds.
2. Lens — look through it, both ways
Point the lens at a bright light and look through it from front and back:
- Fungus — spidery, web-like threads. Walk away; it spreads and etches coatings.
- Haze — a milky veil that kills contrast.
- Scratches — small front-element marks matter less than people think; rear-element damage matters more.
- Aperture blades — should snap open and closed instantly and be dry. Oil on the blades means sluggish, overexposed frames.
- Focus ring — smooth resistance, no gritty spots, no wobble.
3. Light seals and mirror bumper (film bodies)
Open the back and run a fingertip along the foam seals in the door channels. Sticky, crumbling, or tar-like foam means every roll risks light leaks. Seal replacement is a cheap, routine job — but use it to negotiate the price down.
4. Meter and electronics
Put in a fresh battery (bring the right one with you — check the model's battery type beforehand) and confirm the meter reacts when you swing from a dark corner to a window. On electronic bodies, remember: no battery, no shutter. A "dead" AE-1 is often just a dead 4LR44.
5. Film transport
Advance and fire a few times with the back open. The sprockets and take-up spool should turn, the frame counter should increment, and the rewind mechanism should engage without crunching.
6. Battery compartment
Green or white crust means a battery leaked. Light corrosion can be cleaned; heavy corrosion may have wicked into the wiring — that's usually a pass.
7. Overall honesty check
Dents on the prism or baseplate mean the camera has been dropped. A worn body that works perfectly beats a mint body that hasn't been film-tested.
Quick Reference Table
| Component | What to Check | Walk Away If... |
|---|---|---|
| Shutter | All speeds, slow ones audibly slower | Speeds sound identical, or it sticks open |
| Lens | Fungus, haze, oily aperture blades | Fungus threads or heavy internal haze |
| Light seals | Foam in door channels | (Don't walk — negotiate; it's a cheap fix) |
| Meter | Responds to bright vs dark | No response with a known-fresh battery |
| Film advance | Smooth wind, counter increments | Grinding, slipping, or a stuck counter |
| Battery bay | Clean contacts | Heavy corrosion spreading into the body |
Common Mistakes
- Buying "as-is, untested" to save money. Untested usually means tested-and-failed. The discount rarely covers the repair.
- Testing without a battery. Half the "broken" electronic cameras for sale just need power to prove they work — and without it you can't verify anything.
- Ignoring the lens to judge the body. A clean 50mm can outlive several bodies; a fungused one contaminates your whole bag.
- Skipping the first test roll. Shoot a cheap roll the week you buy and have it developed promptly — you want to find leaks and spacing problems inside any return window.
FAQ
Is a little dust inside the lens a problem?
No. Nearly every vintage lens has some internal dust, and it has virtually no effect on photos. Fungus and haze are the real problems.
Should I buy a camera with rotted light seals?
It's fine if the price reflects it — seal kits are inexpensive and the job is routine. Our repair service can handle it if you'd rather not DIY.
How do I test a used film camera without wasting film?
Do everything on this checklist dry, then dedicate one cheap roll as a test: shoot it across all shutter speeds in good light and have it developed. One roll tells you about leaks, metering, and frame spacing.
What's a CLA and does every old camera need one?
Clean, Lubricate, Adjust — a service tune-up. Not every camera needs one, but a camera that's sat in a closet for 20 years usually benefits, especially at slow shutter speeds.
Are used DSLRs worth buying now?
Often, yes — the mirrorless transition pushed used DSLR prices down hard. Check shutter count and sensor condition; see our mirrorless vs DSLR guide for the trade-offs.
Buying used and want a second opinion? Bring it by Neptune Photo at 731 Franklin Ave, Garden City, NY — we've been handling cameras since 1963, we can put a test roll through our lab, and if something's wrong we offer equipment repair.
Cover photo: See-ming Lee, via Wikimedia Commons, licensed CC BY-SA 2.0.
Written and reviewed by the Neptune Photo team — the staff behind the counter and in the film lab at our Garden City, NY shop since 1963. Read our editorial policy
